It is 1.00PM Friday 21st October and in an hour I will have my final spanish class here in Cusco. Am I fluent…hell no…am I fluid…hell no… can I speak spanish…yes but in a catantonic dyslexic form…need to work on it when I get back.????
this week has been slower…ditched the tandems to concentrate on the all important grammar and one to one conversational with Ana Marie – an exuberante, lithe ?divorced mother of one .Ana Marie speaks 3 languages and presently is studying German. When her brows, during conversational class, take on a contorted look I know I am being far from fluid- eyestrain is a constant for me in class as my eyes have a tendency to look up to the left hand corner of the classroom in the vain hope that the words will be revealed on the wall!! It is not for the lack of trying…I am the only one in our house, in 5 weeks, to have attended every voluntar duty, every spanish class…felt like the nerdy geek everytime i left the house…am I proud of that…goddam right I am!!! Tenacity, endurance and plain stubborness helped me to see and experience many different things in Cusco.
Am sharing a room with Cargill from Sydney..works well…I go to my top bunk at 8.00Pm …she arrives at 2-3 am to her bottom bunk …I let her have it, after all she could fall from the top after a night out on the town…and I get up at 6.00am …so we are ships in the night.
I have enjoyed here the weather, the crisp dry air and the people who come and go at our San Pedro family house and the local people as well…the beggars who lined the street and became a familiar part of my landscape…final day gave them each a donation .
San Pedro house has been a fantastic place to stay.The staff friendly, food fantastic, cleanliness excellent…it was a haven to return to after a day´s volunteering and spanish classes…always someone home to share your day with…the ones volunteering in the medic division have amazing stories of poverty, malnutrition and general hygiene…dentist tools never cleaned between patients, no administrations of painkillers for dentistry work…just drill and fill…still using mercury filling, babies are covered in their own film of protective dirt and have occasional head injuries when their mothers put them on their backs and forget to watch the head as they depart through the doors. Long wide colourful cloths service as baby carriers, food carriers, grass transporters (for guinea pigs) I have only seen 2 pushchairs in time here. Generally the babies/toddlers are hauled to the front for breastfeeding and then returned to the back to sleep.
The construction volunteers come home and tell their stories of never enough materials, even though part of their fee goes towards materials. They find this frustrating as they would love to work for the full 3-4 hours. Cusco time I suppose??? Construction volunteers were also frustrated when some wanted to work both morning and afternoon but were not permitted to do so unless they paid for the privilege…curious use of volunteers???? would have thought project completion would be first priority…then what would I know!!!
I have always felt safe here, but am aware that the locked shop doors, that i pass on my way home after 5.oopm and that are covered in security bars and huge locks send a message that not all is well at night???
Well had final spanish lesson..aussies brought the beer, Canadian brought the cake and I contributed the chips…we happily drank and ate our way through class with teacher Kris joining in… the party was for her as she was leaving to go on holiday and all us 5 had been her students for the last 5 weeks… just co–incidental that it was my last day too!!! Other people filed past with eyebrows raised as they viewed the empty bottles and snack packs…yes we still learnt about Group 5 preterite indefindo irregular verbos….uhm now what were they???
As i add to this final journal entry Iam into my last16 hours in Cusco and the sky is looking very grey!!! Tonight is Halloween at Maximo Nivel…the Aussies in spanish class have gone all out to make costumes…but I am reluctant to go…would rather see the WRC final at 3.00am.
This morning took a final 3 hour walk around the streets of Cusco, purchased a few things and met up with Maryline teacher from my first placement to say goodbye etc.
These 5 weeks have been an amazing experience, different to what i had expected . The sights sounds and smells that assailed my eyes on first arriving became as natural as breathing (except this morning when came across a meat market down a back alley where cows entrails …tripe etc sat in the warm weather waiting for customers…did turn my stomach and remind me that it was truly time to leave.Would I ever come back..who knows have met some lovely people both local and overseas and I wish Cusco and it´s inhabitants well. Being here reminds me that people all over the world are the same, all like to laugh have fun and earn enough money to have a reasonable lifestyle…and like all cities it ha a dark underside and <i suspect corruption is rive…but that is Cusco…chao , buen suerte Cusco.

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